Monthly Archives: September 2018

Disque dur pour Super MB STAR est maintenant mis à jour à V2018.9

Disque dur pour Super MB STAR est maintenant mis à jour à V2018.9

Newly Added Special Function 

1. Erase SCR ADBLUE fault code (in MR) with correct New FDOK XN
2. Nox Torque Limit Setting (in FR_CPC0) with correct New FDOK XT
3. Special Function Password Free for Transporter
4. Password Free & OFFLINE key teach-in  program key transponder key Smart SAM451 &ETACS454 2016-12 UP
5. Add dev data and read codingstring in ESP 454
6. Add DevData&DeData in cu adaptation SAM451+DevData&ExtraCoding in cu adaptation ESP451
7. SMART SAM 450 & 452 Extra Functions Writing VIN & Development Status (inside control unit adaptation)
8. W204 available in DAS
9. Special Function Password Free (Cars, VANs, Sprtiners, etc.)
10. TRANSMISSION or GETRIEBE – EGS2 Diagnosis Routine password free
11. Audio Video Navigation and telematics – add Dev menu in COMAND APS
12. TRANSMISSION or GETRIEBE – EGS1 Special Function password free
13. Audio Video Navigation and telematics – HU Exchange Audio 50 to COMAND password free
14. Develop mode in full vehicle list
15. Online SCN Coding Free for 10 times (Need provide Super MB STAR S/N.)
16. Offline Coding / offline SCN coding available.

Fly EasyMaker Honda Key Programmer Operation Instructions

Honda Key Programmer Operation Instructions

1. For transponder key.

A. Switch to “IMMO”, and prepare all keys to register.

B. Turn ignition ON to position II(Instrument panel light on but engine OFF), connect programmer to OBDII socket

C. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di”, Turn ignition OFF.

D. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di, Di, Di”, turn ignition on without changing key.

E. The buzzer long beep once “Di—“, key registration begins.

F. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di”, Turn ignition OFF.

G. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di, Di”, Change another key and turn ignition ON

H. Repeat step F,G, register more up to 6 keys.

I. For last key: First turn ignition ON/OFF following above instructions. When the buzzer periodically short beep with “Di Di”, turn on ignition WITHOUT changing key. Then the buzzer periodically short beep with “Di”, DO NOT turn off ignition and keep ignition on for more than 20 seconds.

J. The buzzer long beep once “Di—“, key registration finished.

K. The buzzer periodically long beep with “Di—“, start to learn remote function. Learning remote function instruction: close all doors, press and release lock/unlock button on key in 4 seconds until door locks lock/unlock. Then learn next remote.(Some cars do not need remote learning, and no buzzer beep tips for learning remote)

L. Turn ignition OFF. Pull out programmer from OBDII. Try to start engine with every key.

2. For smart key.

A. Switch to “SMRT”, and prepare all smart cards to register. Only 1 card in car, and the others out of car.

B. Push one-push-start button, or use ignition key in card, turn ignition ON(Instrument panel light on but engine OFF). If all cards lost and can’t turn ignition on, press and hold one-push-start button. Connect programmer to OBDII socket.

C. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di”, turn ignition OFF

D. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di, Di, Di “, turn ignition ON.

E. The buzzer long beep once “Di—“, card registration begins.

F. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di”, take card out of car.

G. The buzzer periodically short beep with “Di, Di”, take another card in car.

H. Repeat step F,G, register more up to 6 cards

I. For last card: First take card in car following instruction. When the buzzer periodically short beep with “Di”, DO NOT take card out of car and keep card in car for more than 100 seconds.

J. The buzzer long beep once “Di—“, cards registration finished.

K. Turn ignition OFF. Pull out programmer. Try to start engine with every card.


Solved! ICOM Next Esys fitted & coded new FRM3. Everything is working.


Fitted and coded a brand new FRM3 everything is working except power windows, I cannot initialise them because the FRM has a Windows Regulator over temperature fault stored so has shutdown power to the windows.
Got issues with both front windows, car does not have rears that open

But windows were working with previous frm

I cannot clear this fault at all with ISTA+
I am using latest psdz and have FA coded (no mods) several times to no avail.

Car: 2013 F13
Tool: ICOM Next

Jararak advice:

try to recode it one more time with null file (regarding VO)

maybe try to power off transport mode


Have FA coded several times now, I did do a delete transport mode after fitting, but if it was in transport mode other things would not work

KKKKK advice:

You only need to initialize the windows with ista+ ! That’s all after coding.


Can’t do that Ista+ does nothing because of over temperature fault code

Now solved!!!
Flashed latest software and re-coded all errors now gone and windows initialised.

Flashed with latest software using Esys and Icom Next


Programming and Registering are 2 different things. They use totally different equipment.
So I needed a new battery because my old one was holding an 11.5v charge when the car was off. I ordered a Braille no weight, 21lb battery from HP Autowerks with their custom battery tray. I had a shipping timing issue and Harold made sure it got to me before I went away.

So I come back from vacation and look for a good indy to install my new battery. I found Pinnancle Motor Werks in Stirling, NJ so I went there to get my battery installed/registered.

They have an Autologic for those wondering.

Anyway so we go through the menus to register the battery and since the Braille is an AGM battery, I need to program my car so it charges the battery correctly.

SO if you’re replacing your battery with an AGM and you have a lead acid battery, you NEED to program the correct type! Registering and programming are 2 different procedures.

However, the Autologic device had only the following options: 90Ah AGM, 90Ah, 80Ah AGM, 80Ah, 70Ah AGM, 70Ah, 55Ah, and 46Ah. I think that was all of them.

The Braille I bought has a 31Ah rating….what to do?

Basically my indy didn’t want to be held liable for damages later incurred….understandable. So I told the shop to program my car as a 70Ah AGM, the lowest Ah AGM available on my car. I was concerned about my car being programmed to charge an AGM, not a lead acid.

So we’ll see if my battery holds up. I was mainly concerned that my car was programmed to charge an AGM. The Ah rating will be something I will monitor over the life of the battery.

So things I learned from this: (For those of you who just want to read about registration and programming)

Battery Registration does 3 things:

1) Logs Mileage.
2) Tells the car a new battery is installed.
3) Not sure about this one but I think the car records the condition of the battery at 80% of the capacity… a reference point.

Now there is programming with ICOM A2 or ICOM Next…..which requires reintializing modules, mainly the CAS and FRM module.

Our cars have many different Ah ratings (90Ah, 80Ah, 70Ah) and types (AGM vs non-AGM). There are other parameters that differ as well but these are the main ones in programming. The main difference the computer needs to know is AGM or non-AGM. AGMs will charge differently. I guess different Ah ratings tell the car how long to charge the battery and how often to maintain it. Ah ratings are basically a reserve rating. A 1 amp draw on my 21lb Braille will last 31 hours before a recharge is needed.

Anyway, so the reason why I have decided this was a bad decison is because:

1) The CCAs on the Braille are 550A. Stock = 750A. This battery is fine for warmer climates but since I’m on the East Coast…..I’ll be needing a battery heater and a tender.
2) The Ah rating on the Braille is 31Ah. Stock = 90Ah. This is why I need a tender.

Those with a BT tool:

Reset Battery Adaptation and Battery Registration are redundant entries and send the same command. You can only use this option if you are replacing the battery with the SAME spec. Same Ah (capacity) and type (AGM vs non-AGM).

If you decide to install a battery with a different type or capacity you need to have the car programmed so it knows its capacity and type.

Here, AGM batteries will be explained:

In September 2002, the first VRLA batteries, better known as AGM batteries came into use.

VRLA means valve-regulated lead acid, or a lead battery with a pressure relief valve.

AGM stands for absorbent glass mat, or absorbent glass-fiber fleece.)

An AGM battery (90 Ah) is currently installed in the E46 with the M56 engine. Its use in other vehicle models will follow.

The continuously increasing energy requirements of modern vehicle electrical systems, demands ever more efficient battery solutions. A modern luxury vehicle has some (100) actuator motors that have to be provided with electrical current. In addition, there are safety, environmental and comfort features that are increasingly becoming part of the standard equipment such as ABS (anti-lock brake system), DSC (dynamic stability control), EPS (electric power steering), heated catalytic converter, electronically controlled suspension, air conditioning and navigation systems. Current consumption is considerable even when the vehicle is not in use.

AGM batteries are more expensive to produce, however this extra cost is offset by the following benefits:

Much longer service life

Improved starting reliability at low temperatures

Reliable starting of engines with high starting current requirements

100% maintenance-free

Low risk in the event of an accident (reduced environmental risk)

Service life of AGM batteries

(1) Available capacity [%]

(2) Distance [thousand km]

(3) AGM battery

(4) Lead-calcium battery

(5) 50% capacity line

Brief description of components

AGM batteries can be recognized by the black housing and the lack of the “magic eye”.


Positive grille with silver alloy
Set of positive plates

Positive plate
Set of negative plates

Negative grille
Block of plates

Negative plate
Block box with base strips

Separator made of glass-fiber fleece


AGM batteries differ from conventional lead-calcium batteries in the following points:

Larger plates:

Larger plates allow a power density some 25% greater.

Glass-fiber-fleece separators:

This enables a cycle consistency up to 3 times greater to be achieved.

This improves cold-starting ability, current consumption and service life.

Airtight housing with pressure relief valve:

The inspection plugs are sealed and cannot be opened.

Acid bound in grass-fiber fleece:

In contrast to conventional lead-calcium batteries, the sulfuric acid in a battery with fleece technology is not held as a liquid in the battery housing, but rather it is completely bound (100%) in the glass-fiber fleece (separators). This gives increased security against the acid escaping and thus reduces the environmental risk. For this reason, no acid can escape if the battery housing is damaged. In addition, the AGM battery is sealed to be airtight. This is possible because the gases are converted back into water by the permeability of the separators.

How it works

AGM batteries differ from conventional lead-calcium batteries in their environmental compatibility and their retention of gases during charging.

When a vehicle battery is charged, the electrolysis process emits the gases oxygen and hydrogen.

In a conventional lead-calcium battery, these two gases are released into the atmosphere.

In an AGM battery, the two gases are converted back into water: The oxygen created at the positive electrode during charging moves through the permeable glass-fiber fleece to the negative electrode, where it reacts with the hydrogen ions that are brought in with the electrolyte, to create water (oxygen cycle). In this manner, the gases, and thus the electrolyte, is not lost.

Only when the gas production is excessive, that is when too much pressure is generated (20 to 200 mbar), does the pressure-relief valve open, thereby allowing gas to escape while also preventing entry of atmospheric oxygen. Because the pressure in the battery is regulated by a valve, the AGM battery is also known as the VRLA battery (valve-regulated lead acid).

Service Instructions for AGM Batteries

When handling AGM batteries, certain special factors must be taken into consideration with regard to battery renewal and installation location.


Warning: Do not charge AGM batteries with 14.8 volts! Do not use rapid charging programs!

When charging batteries in the “stand alone” mode, the maximum charge voltage of 14.8 volts must not be exceeded. Even briefly charging an AGM battery with a charge voltage of more than 14.8 volts (voltages usually used in rapid charge programs) will damage the battery.

Installation Location

Warning: Do not install AGM batteries in the engine compartment!

Because of large temperature variations, AGM batteries must not be installed in the engine compartment. This would result in a significant reduction in the service life of the battery.

Do Not Open

Warning: Do not open AGM batteries

On no account should AGM batteries be opened, as oxygen from the atmosphere would cause the battery to lose its chemical balance and cause it to fail.

Battery Replacement

An AGM battery, when installed as original equipment, must always be replaced with an AGM battery.

In special cases, where a customer’s driving profile (e.g. short distance driving), results in a discharged battery, the AGM battery is a recommended replacement. Note that replacement batteries resulting from a customer’s driving profile cannot be claimed under warranty.
So as long as you replace your battery with the same spec (CA, CCA, Ah ratings, and type (AGM, non-AGM)), then you just need to register your battery.

If you change any specs you may need to program, then register the battery….especially when retrofitting an AGM.

I don’t think small differences in ratings will require programming, just registration. As long as the Ah rating and type are the same/similar values, then you should be good.

EDIT: I also forgot to mention that the battery I received was a bit smaller than the ones in the DIY guides here and on M3post. My power distribution block sat directly over the negative terminal opposed to next to it, like the ones in the DIY.

I had to configure it in a weird way. I’ll post up a picture later.

I did not want to remove the distribution block because it holds the main fuses for our cars and also I would need to cut, fuse, and terminate 4 or 5 wires, some being a pretty thick guage. I’m lazy….


Ford IDS 110 install – I see this solution on internet as attacked file. Everyone can try and confirm the result. Hope it can help someone! Here is the released web I found:

How to install Ford IDS 109 software:

1- Install the ids 86 before changing the date to 1 07 2015

(hold the date 1/7/2015 ,, until you finish step 5

every time you restart your computer, check the date, if it is on 1/7/2015)

2- Install patch ( choice option 2 )

3- Make a backup of your windows system (I recommend, this is optional)

4- Open the program with the interface connected ,,( choose NON DEALER,when open program for first time ) , keep vcm2 turn on,on the computer.

5 – Create a restore point,,,then turn off vcm of the computer

6 – Okay, now install the new version, v109.01, before installing, changing the date of your computer, to the current day

7- After installing, go back to the restore point, which you created in step 5, activate this restore point, and then open the program

8- Finally, install FordExtendProgram (click right mouse button click on, run as administrator)

I have tried IDS V110 on 2011 Ranger/Mazda B series/Troller 2.2L

Its diagnostic is all ok.


Mega link:!ZOYGiSxT!_M02WlSt48iCvZimlK2a-V50vsZa5schHq3V5Zrrlsg


Xtool X100 PAD2 All Key Lost Programming for Honda Civic 2015 Smart Key.

This post show the operations of how to use XTOOL X100 PAD2 to program Honda Civic 2015 smart keys.

Connect XTOOL X100 PAD2 to Honda Civic

Enter the menu to select vehicle model”Accura/Honda

Agree the “Disclaimer”

Select”Smart Key System”


Select “Type 3(button)


Select”All smart keys lost”


Follow the instruction to take all smart keys out of the car

Then click”OK” to continue


Put 1 smart key in the car

Double-click start button,whether ignition can be switched in ?

Try it, here i click’YES”


Please input the number of smart keys


Take smart key out of the car


Put new smart key into the car


Switch ignition off


Switch ignition on within 15 seconds


Whether security indicator light is extinguished ?

Here click”Yes”

Switch ignition on within 15 seconds


Switch ignition off


Switch ignition on within 15 seconds


Program success



i want to share the pictures of the pcb board from my SD connect C4 and tips of PCB fix from folks in a forum.

the problem with SDconnect is that self test gives errors about RAM and FLASH.





Although the term doesn’t mean much, this is a lower end board as far as they go. You could fairly safely assume that they spent as little as possible on the parts for this. If you can get the parts and feel like lifting and replacing the handful of TSSOPs, you could try to repair it, otherwise I’d just put it into the bone pile and hope for a better one next time. Although it doesn’t guarantee anything, don’t buy based on the cheapest price you can find. Ask for interior photos *before* you buy and pay with something that allows you to get your money back if what you get doesn’t match what they said you’d get. It’s been discussed ad nauseam already on this thread.

Reference: from someone off provides a comprehensive list of which component on Chinese SDconnect C4 mux to change to a genuine one

The RAM for the PPC on the top is DDR SDRAM (16Mx16) (search for k4h56xx38j_66tsop2_rev10.pdf). Alliance, ISSI, and Winbond make crosses for it. The parallel NOR on the CPU side is an S29GL (3.3V, 64Mbit, parallel NOR — you can still find those around without too much trouble).

The C166 you can find via Octopart (XC161CJ-16F40F). You will need to program the flash on this part if you just want to drop it in.

The switching regulators are mostly LTC3412A — you can find those without too much trouble.

You can find the Ethernet PHY AM79C874VI without too much trouble.

For the 4Mb/5V SRAMs on the back, you need a 5V TSOP-44 10ns 4Mb (or larger) SRAM. ISSI makes the IS61C5128AL, which I believe should be a drop in replacement.

The parallel NOR flash on the bottom could be more of a pain in the ass. You need to find a 16Mb (or greater) 5V 70ns (or faster, although this may not be super critical), AMD CFI compatible (if you want to be safe) flash in TSOP 48. These parts are long obsolete. You’re going to have to do some digging around to locate those.

The CPLD on the bottom is an LC4256V-75TN176C. You can still find those.

I can’t remember the part # for the Hynix NAND on the bottom, but I’ll update the post if/when I do.

So all this said…unless you are very experienced with rework and have good equipment, you could very likely end up destroying the PCB in the process of trying to do all of this rework. Reworking these boards is not something that’s economically viable as has been pointed out on here by Anturage before.